I was recently in Chengdu, China, speaking at a few events just before the 88th China National Sugar & Wine Trade Fair, the largest fair attracting wine and alcohol buyers from around the country. This year, despite the cautious outlook for most high-end spirits and wine, the fair organisers are expecting record-breaking attendance. The fair takes place twice annually, once in Chengdu and the second one in different cities around China. More than 100,000 people attended the fair last year and this does not even take into consideration the key events held around the major hotels in Chengdu starting from a week before the exhibition opens.

During my stay, I requested samples of Chinese wine to be sent to Chengdu and very kindly, I was provided samples by Changyu, Niya, West Region, Turpan Loulan Winery, Les Champ d’Or, Leirenshou, Silver Heights and Grace Vineyard. Thank you especially to Grace Vineyard who sent a mini vertical of Deep Blue as well as Chairman’s Reserve. The wines were tasted all in one group with the best wines taken to dinner to see how the wines evolved and opened up over time. There are huge improvements in the wines from even just a year ago and the regions that shows most promise are Ningxia and Xinjiang.

1. 2009 Grace Vineyard Chairman’s Reserve, Shanxi, China
This is a full bodied, generous Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Grace Vineyard. Among the 3 vintages tasted including the 2008 and 2010, this was by far the most substantial and complex. The palate offers a range of ripe flavours – blackberries, cedar, vanilla, savoury roasted herbs and plums. Tannins are firm and well managed with good density and depth showing potential to age and evolve. (90)

2. 2010 Silver Heights The Summit Gaoyuanyuan Vineyard, Helan Mountain, Ningxia, China
Among the 14 Chinese wines tasted, this was one of the highlights. According to winemaker Emma Gao, this vineyard is one of the highest altitude vineyards in China at 1,200 metres above sea level. The wine made by one of the few female winemakers in China, Emma Gao, who has a Diploma in Oenology from Bordeaux, is a lovely medium bodied red from Helan Mountain. This wine is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Cabernet Gernischt (Carmenere) and offers flavours of plums, blackberries, cherries and fresh herbs. Tannins are supple and very well handled. Fairly long finish with potential to age. (90)

3. 2008 Chateau Changyu Moser XV, Ningxia, China
This is an impressive wine from Changyu that is also at an impressive price (retail 1,600 RMB or US$260). This wine has wonderful concentration which is quite different from many Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends from China. Deep colour, juicy blackberry and cherry fruit with firm tannins at only 12.5% alcohol. Velvety, supple tannins and oak that has been judiciously used for aging. (88)

4. 2008 Grace Vineyard Chairman’s Reserve, Shanxi, China
A medium weight Cabernet Sauvignon blend with dark berry, earthy flavours and notes of crunchy fresh, Chinese red dates in the mid palate. The flavours are subtle, savoury and quite soft. This vintage is weaker than the riper 2009 vintage but has more substance than the 2010 which is dilute. (86)

5. 2009 Grace Vineyard Deep Blue, Shanxi, China
A subtle, easy to drink, medium bodied red made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Tasted alongside the 2008 and 2010 vintages of this wine, 2009 is by far the best, with greater concentration and ripeness in the fruit compared with the other two vintages. Black plums and fresh Chinese red dates along with a hint of dried herbs mingle in this wine. Tannins are soft and supple. Enjoy young. (85)

6. 2010 Grace Vineyard Chairman’s Reserve, Shanxi, China
This wine is by far the thinnest and most dilute among the three vintages of the Chairman’s reserve including the 2009 and 2008. On the nose the wine offers delicate flavours of strawberries and plums and the palate is light with a hollowness in the flavours and a fairy short finish. Very different from the 2009 which is among the best reds from China. (83)

7. 2010 Grace Vineyard Deep Blue, Shanxi, China
This vintage is leaner and lighter than the 2009 with red cherry and yellow plum flavours. The flavours are weak on the palate as well as in the finish. Light tannins and body make for easy drinking red for early consumption. (81)

8. 2010 Chateau Iceberg Winery Company, Leirenshou Yijing, Helan Mountain, Ningxia, China
This medium bodied red is fruity and simple – the flavours are clean and fruit flavours vibrant. Tannins are supple and lack bitterness. The fruit is confectionary rather than fresh and it tastes like a crafted wine with simple plum and dark berry flavours with fairly short finish. (81)

9. 1997 CITIC Guoan Wine Company West Region Cabernet Sauvignon, Xinjiang, China
There were two bottles of this wine and the first was corked while this one, though not suffering from TCA/cork taint, was fairly simple. The nose is attractive enough with ripe plums, blackberries and dried Chinese black dates. However, the tannins are coarse and the finish astringent and bitter. The fruit is dried out on the palate. This Cabernet Sauvignon was probably better in its youth. (80)

10. 2008 Les Champ d’Or Dry Red, Xinjiang, China
This is very different from any Cabernet Sauvignon that I have ever tasted before. Every time I taste this wine, I wonder if it is really a Cabernet Sauvignon as it says on the label. The colour is as light as a Pinot Noir and the flavours are closer to a thin Cabernet Franc. Flavours fall in the red berry spectrum and there are notes of violets and rose petals. Light bodied, fairly thin with moderate length. The vineyard, according to the label, is organic. Drink young. (79)

11. 2008 Chateau Changyu Baron Balboa, Xinjiang, China
This wine has an odd peppermint and eucalyptus nose with dried root vegetables. This Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend is dried out on the palate with a musty note that is not TCA/cork taint. Short, astringent finish. (73)