The story of Dunn Vineyards echoes the growth of Napa Valley’s own tale of success over the past three decades. Dunn was founded in 1979 by Randy and Lori Dunn. They initially started with only five acres of vineyards, which expanded over the years, increasing production from only 600 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon to 5,000 cases. It is still not a large winery, especially when compared with some of Medoc’s great chateaux. Napa Valley grew as a premier fine wine region in the United States with small family owned wineries like Dunn. Like many Napa wineries, the second generation of the Dunn family, son Michael and daughter Kristina, are involved in the wine business.
In May 2013 in Hong Kong, I was fortunate to taste a vertical of Dunn, organized by a friend who has been collecting Dunn from its first vintage, 1981. I was impressed with the youthfulness of the 1981 Howell Mountain when only 600 cases were produced. The 1981 will age easily for at least another decade or more, while the other Dunns from the 1980s taste more youthful than many of their Bordeaux counterparts from the same vintage. The early 1990 Dunns, like the 1992 and 1993, were disappointing but the 1980s produced some stunning wines. If being ageworthy is a sign of quality, then Dunn must be rated as among the top wines of Napa Valley.
1. 1981 Dunn, Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley, California, USA
Still extremely youthful, this full bodied Cabernet still tastes only about a decade old. Amazing how well Dunn Howell Mountain reds age and evolve. Dark, earthy, black truffle and herb flavours mingle on the palate. Notes of tarragon and rosemary are present in the finish. Subtle, layered red with firm tannins barely showing its age. Will keep for at least a decade or more. (92)
2. 1982 Dunn, Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley, California, USA
An expressive Cabernet with layers of intense flavours mocha, cocoa, plums, earth, cedar and blackberries. This wine is nearly 30 years old and does not seem older than a decade. This is one of Dunn’s best vintages from the 1980s that really shows the potential of this amazing site. (94)
3. 1983 Dunn, Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley, California, USA
This Cabernet is closed, very restrained and hardly expressing much at all. On the palate, the wine is muscular with firm tannins and earthy, minerally flavours. This wine leans so much toward lean, herbal flavours that it is hard to appreciate the wine even after 30 years of age. It is perfect with a steak and other red meat dishes. (89)
4. 1985 Dunn, Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley, California, USA
Incredibly youthful and vibrant with layers of tobacco, black mushrooms and roasted herbs. This wine has great density and depth with tannins that are firm and chewy. Although it is full bodied, there is an underlying freshness that makes the wine light rather than heavy. (93)
5. 1986 Dunn, Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, Napa Valley, California, USA
This is an elegant Cabernet Sauvignon from Dunn less dense and much less concentrated than the Howell Mountain but more approachable. This 27 year old red is at its peak with silky tannins, lovely aromatics of truffles and thyme. Balanced, well crafted wine that is ready to enjoy now. (90)
6. 1987 Dunn, Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley, California, USA
Ripe, opulent and intense. This was one of the most impressive wines that was almost in a class of its own. While other vintages like the 1982 or the 1983 were still restrained, this wine was much more generous and intense. Very long finish. (95)
7. 1988 Dunn, Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley, California, USA
This is a gorgeous Cabernet that is even better than the amazing 1987 tasted alongside it. Full bodied, voluptuous with exotic spices and herbs backed by firm tannins. The wine has an underlying freshness and lift that makes it seem much younger than its years. The dark berry fruit is still youthful and shows little sign of age a remarkable wine that is among the best Napa Cabernets I have ever tasted. (96)
8. 1990 Dunn, Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley, California, USA
This is an extremely young wine that still needs time to evolve in bottle amazing since it is already 23 years old! Blackberries and cassis mingle with tobacco, fresh herbs and hint of black truffles. Tightly wound, chewy tannins and flavours that are not that expressive right now. (91)
9. 1991 Dunn, Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, Napa Valley, California, USA
This is a disappointing wine from Dunn the tannins are green and astringent on the finish. The flavours are minty, herbal and oddly medicinal. Tannins and flavours are not quite ripe and the finish is fairly short. (84)
10. 1993 Dunn, Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley, California, USA
The flavours are savoury, earthy and dull rather than vibrant. The Howell Mountain Cabernets from the early 1980s are fresher, younger and more lifted. The palate offers spicy, herbal flavours but without the intensity and depth of earlier, better vintages. Drink now. (89)